Day 63 - 26 Aug '23 - World Trade Centre. Unless you've been living under a rock, I'm sure you know about the 9/11 attacks on the twin towers in New York. Today, we went to the memorial of all those who died.
The footprints of the two towers have been turned into two negative space waterfalls, with the names of the people who died engraved on a plinth that wraps around them.
The event remains unfathomable. Even for Dan and I, having watched it unfold on TV all those years ago, it still amazed us when we showed footage of the planes crashing into the buildings, and their subsequent collapse, to the kids later in the afternoon.
After the WTC, we carried on to Wall Street and the New York Stock Exchange. It was a pretty cool moment for Dan, who has recently been studying the stock market, and learning how things work. For the kids and I, (okay, just me), the buildings and sculptures we saw on the way were incredible! In fact, we have seen so many public art pieces in this city, it's amazing!
We had some lunch at a nearby park, and then hopped on the subway to Brooklyn to see the bridge. It was fantastic to see the bridge from the famous angles seen on loads of movies and TV shows, with Manhattan in the background!
We looked up at the bridge and noticed people walking over it:
"Shall we walk across it too?" Dan asked.
"Why not?" I replied, "as then we can say we walked across the Brooklyn Bridge!"
Good lord - it was super hot, really busy, had so many people selling things off trestle tables, and every 10 metres we were deafened by recordings of Jay-Z and Alicia Keys singing "Empire State of Mind", (the one where she sings 'in Noo Yoooooooooork'), again and again and again...
Today was our 'ticking off the last of the list' day, so we got back on the train to see the United Nations headquarters. We (and everyone else down on the subway platform) almost suffocated in the oppressive heat underground; luckily the trains are air-conditioned, which was a welcome relief when it eventually arrived.
Unfortunately, the UN was a massive let-down, as there were no flags flying on any of their flagpoles, and the area was closed off. We were unsure if the flags only fly during the week (today was a Saturday) or when the UN is in session.
We quickly backtracked to Grand Central Terminal to get on another train to Hudson Yards to see The High Line. This used to be a freight train line above ground level (to remove 105 road-level crossings), but with motorways and more trucks making freight transportation less desirable, the line was abandoned and went to seed for 20 years. Eventually, after campaigns from the public, the city bought the high line from the rail company, and converted the 2.5 mile track of grass and weeds into a public garden walkway!
We went home after this, which pleased Dan no-end, as he had developed a strange rash on both his legs yesterday that had become worse over the day. Hopefully some antihistamines and mild steroid creams will help, as it looked nasty!
Day 64 - 27 Aug '23 - Statue of Liberty. Our last day in New York was spent visiting what could possibly be the most well-known landmark of the city.
We hopped on the ferry at New Jersey, and after a short stop at Ellis Island to drop off some passengers, we carried on to Liberty Island and got our first close-up view of the Lady herself, with a cloudless sky for a backdrop.
We'd bought tickets to go up the pedestal (the crown tickets were fully booked until mid-November!), and made it there just 10 minutes late; luckily we were still allowed up, after going through our second security check of the day.
It was really cramped on the outside viewing platform at the top of the pedestal, barely one body-width of space, but it was a lovely view. Our ticket also gave us access to the 11-pointed star base, and as it was a lot quieter here than down on the island base, we got lots of uninterrupted photos.
We walked around the museum in the pedestal, but were confused when all the exhibits seemed to be photocopies, and signs mentioned to-scale replicas of an ear and a foot that we couldn't see. It turned out another museum (this one free to go to) had been built on the island, and all the artefacts had been moved there!
Seeing the 2mm thick copper-plated statue in its original state (like this replica of her left foot) must have been something else, before the oxidation patina covered it all.
We got back on the ferry to go to Ellis Island, which is where every immigrant was processed from 1896 to 1954.
Over 12 million people came through this building, from countries like Ireland, Germany, Poland, Holland, and Turkey, to name a few. We saw some old photos of this room as the registration hall, and it was crazy to see all the people sitting patiently on benches, waiting their turn, with all their worldly belongings packed into a couple of trunks.
When we got back to the ferry terminal at New Jersey, we had one last look at Manhattan. The colours of the buildings had all been lit up by the afternoon sun, and it looked beautiful.
We have enjoyed our time in New York, and we know we haven't seen all of it, but we found the constant noise and busyness of the city quite tiring, and are glad to be off to new places tomorrow.
Day 65 - 28 Aug '23 - New Jersey to Atlantic City. We had lots of 'fun' on the road leaving New Jersey, navigating the tangled spaghetti mess that is the New Jersey Turnpike. It was especially fun when Dan accidentally took the furthest-right left-hand straight-through instead of the furthest-left right-hand straight-through, and we had to do a big loop (and pay the tolls) to get back to where we started!
At one point there were seven lanes to steer between, and another place was TWELVE lanes across (six in each direction).
We drove to the Jersey Shore (of MTV fame, apparently), and were amazed at the size of the mansions that were along one side of the road. The other side of the road was streets that all had their own water access, with their boats up on lifts, so was effectively a massive residential marina. It was like Mount Maunganui, Pauanui, and Whangamatā had a baby (somehow...), and the baby was on steroids!
After lunch at the nearby state park (where we saw an osprey), we headed on to Atlantic City, our accommodation for the next two nights. Dan and I were both hoping for a good night's sleep, as the bed we'd been on in New Jersey was the worst yet. (The mattress was so soft that when we lay down on it, our bums sank into it, and we suddenly had very flat bodies!).
Day 66 - 29 Aug '23 - Atlantic City. Well. Not a good sleep. Oh, the room was nice and dark, and it was quiet, and it was cool, and the bed was comfortable, but the room also had two kids, who were back to being in the same bed.
8pm, bedtime. 8:30, reminder it was bedtime. 9pm, reminder it was bedtime, go to sleep. 9:30, reminder it was bedtime, go to sleep, it's now an hour-and-a-half after bedtime.
This was unsurprisingly followed by 1am, 3am, and the oh-so-long 4-5am.
We remain (slightly less than) hopeful that one day the two little shits will lie quietly in bed together, and Just Go To Sleep!
After breakfast, we went for a walk along the famous Atlantic City boardwalk. It's had two or three heydays; the original 1880s to 1910s, the prohibition era 1920s-1930s (think Boardwalk Empire, which, incidentally, was filmed entirely in a Brooklyn soundstage and not on the actual boardwalk at all), then a last spurt around 1950-1960 when there were diving horses!
Now, the casinos that attempted to revive the area are surrounded by closed buildings and tacky shops. It's such a shame. With a lovely, long beach and a wide boardwalk, it could be so much more than what it is now.
We walked the length of the boardwalk and back, then the kids had a quick swim in the motel pool while Dan rested his rash-y legs. They looked quite angry from the heat and humidity.
After dinner at a burger joint within a casino (and being told off for having the kids too close to a roulette wheel), we went for another walk along the boardwalk, to go to the Steel Pier amusement rides. There was a Ferris wheel and some other rides the kids wanted to go on, with comforting names like "Demon Loop".
"Can we go on it?" Abi asked, as she pointed to the hammer-shaped ride that went upside down.
"Sure, but I don't think you'll like it!" I told her.
"Yes I will, it looks FUN!"
The screams were near constant, with only a brief break for breathing.
"I did NOT like that ride," she informed us afterwards, while we laughed.
The next ride was The Diving Horse, where they were lifted up in a rotating disk, then dropped down, and lifted up, and then dropped down again, but the second and third time in a series of small sudden drops.
Alex wanted Dan and I to go on a ride that was lots of spinning and lifting up sideways while rotating. We said "no". Repeatedly. So he went on it by himself!
Abi convinced me to do the Diving Horse with her, and I'm not embarrassed to say there was an initial scream then multiple yelps at the sudden plunges towards sure death.
It would seem both mine and Dan's days of extreme thrill rides are over. Since Disneyland/world and Universal Studios are still on our list, we will need to suck it up and put on brave faces!!
Day 67 - 30 Aug '23 - Atlantic City to Philadelphia. The oppressive humidity from yesterday finally broke, and we woke up at 9am to torrential rain. Fortunately, it cleared ever-so-slightly when it came time to pack up the car.
There was flooding at the street corners and across the roads, and we couldn't see any drains anywhere, but luckily the sun came out as we carried on.
We arrived in Philadelphia early afternoon, and had planned on doing some sightseeing today, but decided just to check in to our accommodation early and get groceries sorted instead. We didn't feel comfortable leaving all our gear in the car; Dan had scared me the other day when he found numerous online reports of the violent crime rate in the city.
Where we stayed in New Jersey, which admittedly looked a bit sketchy in places, had a violent crime rate of 1 in 310. Philadelphia, on the other hand, was 1 in 29. Granted, this is possibly an average 'helped' by some neighbourhoods worse than others, but it still made me rather uneasy.
The internet also said that so long as we stay away from certain suburbs, just stick to tourist places, and don't stay too long at train stations, we will be fine!
The bullet hole in the police vehicle we were driving behind, which we were pretty sure wasn't one of those 'decorative' stickers, filled us with confidence.
Day 68 - 31 Aug '23 - Eastern State Penitentiary. Despite our accommodation being directly opposite a train station (which is why we picked it), we decided against using the public transport due to three random shootings a few weeks ago. (The shootings weren't at this station, but still...). This unfortunately means long drives stuck in traffic, as well as petrol usage and parking fees, but it increases our safety exponentially.
We had a lazy morning in the house. Dan had some work to do, so the kids and I watched a couple of movies on Netflix.
After lunch, we hopped in the car and went to Eastern State Penitentiary. This prison, which operated from 1879 to 1971, was the first designed in a single-storey radial fashion; the guard could stand in the centre and see down all the hallways as he spinned. When the original single storeys reached capacity, the next wings built were two-storeyed.
It was a penitentiary, created to incite penitence (or true regret) in the inmates. They were brought in wearing hoods so they couldn't see any other people, and were housed in solitary cells. These cells had small food doors connecting to the hallway, and a small iron door leading to their own private exercise yard, where they were allowed for two lots of 30 minutes a day. Even the doorways in their cells, which were the same size as Abi, forced them to realise how small their space was, and with just a small slit of a window you really would have felt enclosed.
Silence was desired, and inmates that broke the rule were punished with gags and straight jackets. Even the guards walked the halls with socks over their shoes, so the inmates wouldn't hear them coming.
Al Capone spent a bit of time here for having a concealed weapon. There are reports of him having a glamourous cell, with paintings and a radio and comfortable furniture, but newer reports than the original newspaper article refute this.
After the prison, we went to the famous Rocky Steps! And of course, we all ran up the steps, turned around, and jumped up with our arms raised. I think it was the law to do so, as everyone else that ran up the steps, did it too!
We then walked across the road to a huge George Washington monument - he was riding his horse, and at the base were four representations of Native Americans and fauna of the time.
Despite our concerns for our safety, we saw nothing today to be worried about, which was a relief. Mind you, we were out in a public, tourist spot, in broad daylight; when it got close to 5pm, we decided to head home.
Day 69 - 1 Sept '23 - Independence National Park. After following a Burma trail and scavenger hunt around the house made by Alex and Abi (something they would do frequently at home), we went back into town to learn about the history of the United States; specifically about the Declaration of Independence and the American Revolution.
We were treated to a fabulous tour guide showing us around Independence Hall (originally known as the Pennsylvania State House), where we got to stand in the room that the Declaration was drafted and voted on, then later signed.
With everyone knowing the American Independence Day being 4 July 1776, we were surprised to learn it was actually written and voted on, on the 2nd of July; the 4th of July was the date it was printed and published in the papers. Further to that, it wasn't even signed until the 2nd of August!
We then went on another tour of the first Congress building, where we got to sit in the House of Representatives, and then got to see the Senate House. Coincidentally, this Upper House was actually in the upper storey of the hall!
It was in this building that the Constitution was debated and written, and it was here that Congress stayed for 10 years while Washington, D.C., was created.
We then went to see the Liberty Bell, so-called because of the word 'Liberty' written on it. The bell was moved from Independence Hall to a museum across the road after it developed a crack, that expanded following some failed repair work.
The name 'Liberty Bell' came after the Declaration was signed, as it had already been rung many times before to notify workers in the Pennsylvania State House; it changed name at the same time the abolition of slavery was getting debated.
After some lunch in the park grounds, we carried on to the Museum of the American Revolution. Dan and I both felt it important to teach Alex and Abi the history of America, albeit in a brief fashion. And, to be fair, to learn more about it ourselves! We should never be so narrow minded as to not learn about other countries when given the opportunity.
This museum was incredibly fascinating! We watched a stirring video on the American Indian Oneida tribe, who agreed to side with the Americans in the war for independence. They signed a document stating they would get to keep their lands in perpetuity while the other tribes' land would be forfeit if they won. They went against their own people, as they believed the Americans would be able to provide them a better future than the British would.
However, despite having a signed contract, the Americans then took the land anyway. To really rub salt into the wound, part of the contract said the American government would give them an allowance of muslin every year; this is the one part that has been upheld, although with no allowance for inflation, and the amount of muslin has now become the size of a tea towel. Strange, how the government continues, to this day, to religiously honour one part but not the other...
We could have spent a few more hours in the museum, reading and learning, but at 5pm they shut the doors and we had to leave. Our ticket allowed us to return the next day, but we had other plans.
We made it home safely, again. It would seem we had nothing to fear after all!
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